Through the PMF program, you're given the opportunity to go on rotations, which basically means you get to leave your job and work some place else for a few months. While there are a myriad of choices, I decided I wanted to work at another U.S. Embassy for a few months to see if the Foreign Service is something I'd like to do. That's why I'm in Dhaka, Bangladesh.
I've been in Dhaka now for about three weeks and so far things have been going pretty well. This is my first experience living in a developing country and I was definitely anxious before coming not knowing how I would react to a place that's so different from any that I've ever experienced. But living the life of an expat here is fairly easy and you can live a relatively sheltered life, which is probably not always a good thing.
Of course, there are things that get on many people's nerves, but these are the top issues people (and by "people", I primarily mean expats and wealthier Bangladeshis who have often been educated in the UK or the States) get annoyed by:
1. The traffic. Traffic in Dhaka is terrible. Apparently, a friend I recently met here said the traffic has only gotten REALLY bad in the past two months or so. It's particularly bad during Ramadan because people are going shopping for Eid, the celebration that marks the end of Ramadan. Frankly, I don't anticipate the traffic will suddenly become much better next week when Ramadan is over. To give you an idea how bad the traffic can be, you often need to build at least an hour into your schedule to go short distances. For example, today it took a group of friends and I about an hour to get home from a distance that was probably no longer than 4-5 miles. Yikes.
Traffic is also marred by the zillions of bicycle and autorickshaws that are on the street. The drivers of these rickshaws dart in and out of traffic and since they don't move as fast as cars they can really bog you down.2. The beggars. Interacting with so many people who are less fortunate than you and me has been difficult. Every day, whether you're walking on the street, which is a rare occurrence, or in the car, people constantly come up to you, tap your window, and ask for money or try to sell you small trinkets, books, maps, flowers, etc. Many of the people have severe deformities or are extremely thin. Many are children. I don't think it will ever become easy for me to be confronted by people begging every day, but I must admit I have become desensitized to it, which also upsets me.
3. The restricted freedom of movement. I have had the most problems dealing with a more limited independence. It's difficult to walk places for a number of reasons. First, it's usually extremely humid, not necessarily that hot, but the humidity is crazy and you end up sweating after being outside and moving around for only a few minutes. People also end up staring at you anywhere you go, which I describe below in more detail. Second, crazy traffic means you have to constantly be aware of what's going on around you--a rickshaw or a car could run you over at any point. So, people hire drivers to drive them anywhere, which, I must say, is a luxury I very much enjoy.
4. The staring. Most Westerners are starred at everywhere we go, the exception being those Westerns that blend in and look Bangladeshi. This doesn't bother me as much as it bothers some. Westerners, especially tourists, are a fairly rare site in Bangladesh, so it means people are curious about you. What are you doing in Bangaldesh? Why would you come here? I sometimes find the interest in you endearing. I was at an iftar (the meal that you take to break your fast during Ramadan) last week and one little girl was fascinated by my green eyes. But today a few of us went to the Bangladesh National Museum, which was an interesting experience in itself, and we often felt like WE were on exhibit people kept staring at us so much. So at times, it can be a disconcerting and draining feeling.
5. The pollution. Pollution is pretty bad here. The smell was overwhelming to me my first few days. Combined with the intense humidity, the air often smells acrid, but damp, with a mildew/mold smell. Ick. But, like most people, I've gotten used to the smell hardly even notice it anymore.
BUT, despite this list of bad things, I'm still really enjoying my experiences here. Most importantly, the people of Bangladesh are extremely friendly. I had heard this, but have found it to be very true. For example, the other day I stopped by to look at an apartment that I was thinking of moving to. I arrived during iftar, which is terrible timing since people need to break their fast after not eating all day. But the owner of the building invited me to his apartment to break fast with his family and then show me the apartment. While it may sound sketchy, this kind of thing is a common occurrence in Bangladesh, as hospitality is important to people and they genuinely want to be helpful and friendly. I appreciate this very much.
I'll stop this marathon entry now, but since I've finally gotten the blog ball rolling, it should be easier for me to write a few shorter entries every few days. (Don't hold me to this though.....) But please feel free to make comments or ask questions and I'll do my best to get back to you.
